Safety Recall - Genie Garage Door Openers

Most of the homes I inspect have garages with garage door openers. Today, the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPS) announced a recall of approximately 10,000 Genie Garage Door Openers sold the U.S. While no injuries have been reported, there have been reports of the control board overheating in some units. If you have a Genie brand garage door opener, visit the CPS website at http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2014/Genie-Recalls-Garage-Door-Openers/.

Tips for Foreclosure Purchases

Buying a Foreclosure

by Nick Gromicko 

 

 

Purchasing foreclosed homes in desirable areas at below-market values can be a sound investment strategy. Appreciation on their original prices may be tax-free.  Buying foreclosed rental properties can provide positive cash flow, as well as valuable tax deductions. On the other hand, buying a foreclosure involves homework, patience, and a certain amount of luck. For those wishing to get a bargain house through the foreclosure process, it’s best to learn the basics.

 

Four Ways to Buy a Foreclosed Home

• A presale is when the prospective buyer negotiates with the current owner before the house is foreclosed upon. Presale discounts can be considerable, but communicating and reasoning with the owner isn’t always easy; they might have legal problems, lost their phone service or electricity, or greet you with suspicion, having already been hounded and threatened by creditors. And after time and energy have been invested, the deal can fall through if the owner comes up with the money to repay their debt, or for any number of unexpected reasons. With persistence, however, the seasoned real estate investor can profit from presales. To find out about presales, you can try one of the following avenues:
  • Ask your local county court how to search new notices of default.
  • Find out if the County Recorder has data available online.
  • Look in the "legal notices" section of the newspaper for properties that are coming up for sale at public auction. Take note of the address, the property owner’s name, the tax ID, and whatever other information is contained in the ad.
• A foreclosed home may be sold at a public auction, in which buyers can expect a discount of 10% to 25% of market value. Interested bidders are generally required to show proof of financing, and must have a minimum cash deposit before they are qualified to bid. It might be impossible to gain entry to inspect the interior, too, which makes this type of purchase risky. The local building department may have permit records that can clue you in to the building’s layout and appearance.
• A real estate-owned (REO) sale is a transaction where a foreclosed house is purchased directly from the bank. These properties typically wound up in the bank’s portfolio after failing to sell at auction. REO investments are relatively safe, as there are no tenants to evict or hidden liens and, unlike properties sold at public auction, buyers can usually receive a mortgage to pay for them. And purchasers might even get an unused house; the slow economy has left many builders at the end of their construction-loan periods without finding buyers for the homes, in which case the bank will foreclose on the brand new homes. Unfortunately, REOs are usually offered at near-market prices to recoup the costs of property taxes, maintenance and legal fees. To find REOs, try the following:
  • Check lenders’ websites, as they may have a list of their REOs, along with contact information for the appropriate real estate agent.
  • Call lenders and ask to speak to someone who handles their foreclosures.
  • Check newspapers.
• The Department of Housing and Urban Development has tens of thousands of HUD homes whose previous owners defaulted on federally issued loans. After a period during which local governments gain exclusive buying privileges, they become available to individual buyers who pledge to live in the property. After another 10 days, investors may bid on the property. It’s difficult to make a profit on these houses, as HUD releases them at near-market values.

Tips for Foreclosure Purchases

• Invest time in research and preparation. Those new to the field should spend some time learning the variables of foreclosure investing before making any purchases.
• Budget carefully to prepare for the unexpected. The house may require unforeseen repairs, such as a leaky roof or unstable deck. The price tag of the home itself is often just the first of a series of fees. What if you planned on rental cash flow to cover the mortgage, but you can’t find a tenant?
• Avoid buying a foreclosure sight-unseen. Try to see the house yourself before buying it, or hire someone to evaluate at it in your absence. Distant investors are buying up properties unseen in bulk, and they’re often unpleasantly surprised at how much they’ve been misled.
• Evaluate the neighborhood. If the foreclosure is rife with problems, but it’s in a desirable area with high property resale values, it may still be worth it to make a low offer. An area with several foreclosures or a high crime rate can undermine an otherwise good deal, however.
• Consider how long the house has been vacant. Building damage – and the costs required to make the house livable - generally increases with the time that has lapsed since the last tenant vacated. Pests are a particular issue in houses that have been empty for a long time, and plumbing defects and leaks increase in likelihood in such homes, as well.
• Examine the landscaping. Left unchecked, trees can send their roots into the foundation, and vines can creep into the windows.
• Has the house been professionally inspected by an InterNACHI inspector? Foreclosures can be notorious for damage suffered at the hands of past tenants, through both inadvertent and intentional vandalism and theft.

In summary, there are a number of ways to go about buying a foreclosed home, and buyers should exercise patience, persistence and careful planning before buying foreclosed properties.

Safety in the Kitchen - Anti-Tip Ovens/Ranges

Anti-Tip Brackets for Freestanding Ranges

by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard

Anti-tip brackets are metal devices designed to prevent freestanding ranges from tipping. They are normally attached to a rear leg of the range or screwed into the wall behind the range, and are included in all installation kits. A unit that is not equipped with these devices may tip over if enough weight is applied to its open door, such as that from a large Thanksgiving turkey, or even a small child. A falling range can crush, scald, or burn anyone caught beneath.

Bracket Inspection

Inspectors can confirm the presence of anti-tip brackets through the following methods:

• It may be possible to see a wall-mounted bracket by looking over the rear of the range. Floor-mounted brackets are often hidden, although in some models with removable drawers, such as 30-inch electric ranges made by General Electric, the drawers can be removed and a flashlight can be used to search for the bracket. Inspectors should beware that a visual confirmation does not guarantee that the bracket has been properly installed.
• Inspectors can firmly grip the upper-rear section of the range and tip the unit. If equipped with an anti-tip bracket, the unit will not tip more than several inches before coming to a halt. The range should be turned off, and all items should be removed from the stovetop before this action can be performed. It is usually easier to detect a bracket by tipping the range than through a visual search. This test can be performed on all models and it can confirm the functionality of a bracket.

If no anti-tip bracket is detected, inspectors should recommend that one be installed.

Clients can contact the dealer or builder who installed their range and request that they install a bracket. For clients who wish to install a bracket themselves, the part can be purchased at most hardware stores or ordered from a manufacturer. General Electric will send their customers an anti-tip bracket for free.

According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), there were 143 incidents caused by range tip-overs from 1980 to 2006. Of the 33 incidents that resulted in death, most of those victims were children. A small child may stand on an open range door in order to see what is cooking on the stovetop and accidentally cause the entire unit to fall on top of him, along with whatever hot items may have been cooking on the stovetop. The elderly, too, may be injured while using the range for support while cleaning.

In response to this danger, the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) created standards in 1991 that require all ranges manufactured after that year to be capable of remaining stable while supporting 250 pounds of weight on their open doors. Manufacturers' instructions, too, require that anti-tip brackets provided be installed. Despite these warnings, retailer Sears estimated in 1999 that a mere 5% of the gas and electric units they sold were ever equipped with anti-tip brackets. As a result of Sears’ failure to comply with safety regulations, they were sued and subsequently required to secure ranges in nearly 4 million homes, a measure that has been speculated to have cost Sears as much as $500 million.

In summary, ranges are susceptible to tipping if they are not equipped with anti-tip brackets. Inspectors should know how to confirm that these safety devices are present.

Los soportes antivolcados para las estufas independientes

por Nick Gromicko y Kenton Shepard

Los soportes antivolcados son los aparatos metálicos diseñados para evitar las estufas independientes de volcar. Ellos son normalmente sujetados a la pierna trasera de una estufa o atornillados a la pared detrás de la estufa, y son incluidos en todos los equipos de instalación. Una unidad que no está equipada con aquellos aparatos se puede volcar si suficiente peso es aplicado a su puerta abierta, tal como el de un pavo grande del día de Acción de Gracias, o hasta un niño pequeño. Una estufa en caída puede aplastar, escaldar o quemar a cualquiera persona atrapado debajo.

La inspección de soportes antivolcados

Los inspectores pueden confirmar la presencia de los soportes antivolcados a través de los métodos siguientes:

• Puede ser posible a ver un soporte montado en la pared al mirar la parte trasera de la estufa. Los soportes antivolcados montados en el piso son muchas veces escondidos, aunque en algunos modelos con los cajones desmontables, tal como las estufas eléctricas de 30" (76.2 cm) hechas por General Electric, los cajones pueden ser desmontados y una linterna puede ser utilizado para buscar por el soporte. Los inspectores deberían de saber que una confirmación visual no garantiza que el soporte ha sido instalado apropiadamente.
• Los inspectores pueden agarrar firmemente la sección de parte trasera superior de la estufa y volcar la unidad. Si la unidad está equipada con un soporte antivolcado, no volcará más que unas pulgadas antes de su paro. La estufa debería de estar apagada, y todos los artículos deberían de ser quitados de la estufa antes de que esta acción pueda ser desempeñada. Por lo general, es más fácil de detectar un soporte antivolcado por volcar la estufa que por una búsqueda visual. Esta prueba puede ser desempeñada en todos los modelos y puede confirmar la funcionalidad de un soporte antivolcado.

Si ningún soporte antivolcado es detectado, los inspectores deberían de recomendar que uno sea instalado. Los clientes pueden contactar el comerciante o el albañil que instaló su estufa y pedir que ellos instalen un soporte. Para los clientes quienes desean a instalar un soporte antivolcados ellos mismos, la parte puede ser comprada en casi todas las tiendas de ferretería u ordenada de un fabricante. El General Electric mandará a sus clientes un soporte antivolcado por gratis.

Según la CPSC de los Estados Unidos (la Comisión para la Seguridad de los Productos de Consumo), habían 143 incidentes causados por los volcados de estufas desde 1980 a 2006. De los 33 incidentes que resultaron en muerte, la mayoría de estas víctimas fueron niños. Un niño pequeño puede ponerse de pie en la puerta abierta de la estufa para ver qué está siendo cocinado y accidentalmente causar la unidad entera a caer encima de él, incluso cualquiera cosa caliente que estaba siendo cocinado en la estufa.  Las personas mayores, también, pueden ser heridas al utilizar la estufa como un apoyo a la hora de limpiar.

En respuesta a este peligro, el ANSI (El Instituto Nacional Estadounidense de Estándares) y UL, la organización que certifica la seguridad de productos, crearon los estándares en 1991 que requiere que todas las estufas fabricadas después de este año sean capaces de permanecer estable mientras sosteniendo 250 libras (113.6 kg) de peso en sus puertas abiertas. Las instrucciones de fabricantes, también, requieren que los soportes antivolcados proveídos sean instalados. A pesar de estas advertencias, minorista Sears calculó en 1999 que un mero 5% de las unidades de gas y eléctricas ellos vendieron fueron equipados con soportes antivolcados. Como un resultado del fracaso de Sears a cumplir con las regulaciones de la seguridad, ellos fueron demandados y posteriormente requeridos a asegurar las estufas en casi 4 millones de casas, una medida que ha sido especulada a haber costado Sears tanto como 500 millones de dólares.

En resumen, las estufas son susceptibles a volcar si no están equipadas con los soportes antivolcados. Los inspectores deberían de saber de cómo confirmar que estos aparatos de la seguridad están presentes.

Water Intrusion - Basic Waterproofing

Basic Waterproofing for Basements

by Nick Gromico and Ethan Ward

Water Damage Concerns

Basements are typically the area of a structure most at risk for water damage because they are located below grade and surrounded by soil.  Soil releases water it has absorbed during rain or when snow melts, and the water can end up in the basement through leaks or cracks.  Water can even migrate through solid concrete walls via capillary action, which is a phenomenon whereby liquid spontaneously rises in a narrow space, such as a thin tube, or via porous materials.  Wet basements can cause problems that include peeling paint, toxic mold contamination, building rot, foundation collapse, and termite damage.  Even interior air quality can be affected if naturally occurring gasses released by the soil are being transmitted into the basement. 
Properly waterproofing a basement will lessen the risk of damage caused by moisture or water.  Homeowners will want to be aware of what they can do to keep their basements dry and safe from damage.  Inspectors can also benefit from being aware of these basic strategies for preventing leaks and floods.
Prevent water entry by diverting it away from the foundation.

Preventing water from entering the basement by ensuring it is diverted away from the foundation is of primary concern.  Poor roof drainage and surface runoff due to gutter defects and improper site grading may be the most common causes of wet basements.  Addressing these issues will go a long way toward ensuring that water does not penetrate the basement.

Here are some measures to divert water away from the foundation:

• Install and maintain gutters and downspouts so that they route all rainwater and snow melt far enough away from the foundation of the building to ensure that pooling does not occur near the walls of the structure.  At least 10 feet from the building is best, and at the point where water leaves the downspout, it should be able to flow freely away from the foundation instead of back toward it, and should not be collecting in pools.
  
• The finish grade should be sloped away from the building for 10 to 15 feet.  Low spots that may lead to water pooling should be evened out to prevent the possibility of standing water near the foundation.
  
• Shallow ditches called swales should be used in conditions where one or more sides of the building face an upward slope.  A swale should slope away from the building for 10 to 15 feet, at which point it can empty into another swale that directs water around to the downhill-side of the building, leading it away from the foundation.

 

Repair all cracks and holes.

If leaks or seepage is occurring in the basement's interior, water and moisture are most likely entering through small cracks or holes.  The cracks or holes could be the result of several things.  Poor workmanship during the original build may be making itself apparent in the form of cracks or holes.  Water pressure from the outside may be building up, forcing water through walls.  The house may have settled, causing cracks in the floor or walls.  Repairing all cracks and small holes will help prevent leaks and floods.

Here are some steps to take if you suspect that water is entering the basement through cracks or holes:

• Identify areas where water may be entering through cracks or holes by checking for moisture, leaking or discoloration.  Every square inch of the basement should be examined, especially in cases where leaking or flooding has not been obvious, but moisture buildup is readily apparent.
  
• A mixture of epoxy and latex cement can be used to fill small hairline cracks and holes.  This is a waterproof formula that can help ensure that moisture and water do not penetrate basement walls.  It is effective primarily for very small cracks and holes.
  
• Any cracks larger than about 1/8-inch should be filled with mortar made from one part cement and two parts fine sand, with just enough water to make a fairly stiff mortar.  It should be pressed firmly into all parts of the larger cracks and holes to be sure that no air bubbles or pockets remain.  As long as water is not being forced through basement walls due to outside pressure, the application of mortar with a standard trowel will be sufficient if special care is taken to fill all cracks completely.
  
• If water is being forced through by outside pressure, a slightly different method of patching with mortar can be used.  Surface areas of walls or floors with cracks should first be chiseled out a bit at the mouth of the crack and all along its length.  Using a chipping chisel and hammer or a cold chisel, cut a dovetail groove along the mouth of each crack to be filled, and then apply the mortar thoroughly.  The dovetail groove, once filled, should be strong enough to resist the force of pressure that was pushing water through the crack.

Apply sodium-silicate sealant to the walls and floor.
Once all runoff has been thoroughly diverted away from the foundation, and all cracks and holes have been repaired and no leaking is occurring, a waterproof sealant can be applied as a final measure. 

Sodium silicate is a water-based mixture that will actually penetrate the substrate by up to 4 inches.  Concrete, concrete block and masonry have lime as a natural component of their composition, which reacts with the sodium silicate to produce a solid, crystalline structure which fills in all the microscopic cracks, holes and pores of the substrate.  No water vapor or gas will be able penetrate via capillary action because the concrete and masonry have now become harder and denser from the sodium silicate. 

Here are some steps and tips for its application:

• Special care should be taken when applying sodium silicate.  It is an alkaline substance and, as such, can burn skin and eyes if it comes into contact with them.  Inhalation can also cause irritation to the respiratory tract.
  
• Sodium silicate must be applied only to bare concrete, concrete block or masonry that has been cleaned thoroughly and is free of any dirt, oil, adhesives, paint and grease.  This will ensure that it penetrates the substrate properly and fills in all microscopic cracks.  It can be applied using a garden sprayer, roller or brush to a surface that has first been lightly dampened with a mop or brush.  Apply two to three coats to the concrete, waiting 10 to 20 minutes between each application.  Concrete block and masonry will take three to four coats, with the same 10 to 20 minutes between applications.  Any excess should then be wiped away.  Sodium silicate should not be over-applied or it will not be completely absorbed by the substrate, leaving a white residue.
  
• Paint can then be applied without fear of water vapor getting trapped between the paint and the wall, which could eventually cause blistering and peeling.  Adhesives for tile or floor covering can also be used more effectively, once the substrate has been sealed.

Diverting water away from foundations so that it does not collect outside basement walls and floors is a key element in preventing flooding and water damage.  Ensuring that any water that does end up near basement exteriors cannot enter through holes or cracks is also important, and sealing with a waterproof compound will help prevent water vapor or gas from penetrating, as well.  By following these procedures, the risk of water-related issues in basement interiors can be greatly reduced, protecting the building from damage such as foundation rotting, mold growth, and peeling paint, as well as improving the interior air quality by blocking the transmission of gasses from the soil outside. 

From Basic Waterproofing for Basements - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/waterproofing-basements.htm#ixzz2tJg2dCKw

Space Heaters

Energy-Efficient Space Heaters

by Nick Gromicko and Ethan Ward

Why use space heaters?

Small, portable space heaters are often used when the main heating system is inadequate, or when it would be too costly to operateor install central heating. They can also be useful to supplement adequate central heating in certain instances, such as heating one room that will be primarily occupied while lowering the thermostat on the central system so that heat is not wasted in unoccupied rooms. In some cases, it is possible to lower total heating costs by up to 10%, as well as reduce CO2emissions by up to 800 pounds, by using space heaters in this manner.

Different Types of Space Heaters

Understanding some of the differences between the types of space heaters and how they work can be helpful when deciding what the most efficient and effective options are for a given situation. Below are descriptions of some of the main types of heaters available:

• coil-based convection heaters: This type of heater uses a fan to push air into a room that has been heated internally by passing through hot metal coils. These heaters utilize a safety mesh in order to ensure that nothing in the room will come into contact with the internal heating elements.
• ceramic-element heaters: This type is generally considered safer to operate than a coil-based unit. Since the ceramic core is larger than heating coils, these units can operate at a lower temperature while providing an equivalent amount of heat that spreads over a farther area. This type of heater is also able to maintain a higher temperature for a longer period of time compared to a coil-based unit, which makes it more efficient.
• oil-filled radiators:These heaters are highly efficient and operate silentlybecause they do not use a fan. Instead, they use fluid contained in a permanently sealed radiator apparatus, which does not ever need to be refilled. The oil is heated within the unit, and the heat from the oil then radiates into the room. Once heated, the oil will continue to graduallyrelease warmth into the room even when the internal heating element is turned off.
  
• halogen lamp heaters: Energy-efficient halogen bulbs are used in these types of space heaters to provide instant warmth at the touch of a button. They are made safe by employing safety grilles and cool cabinets, and can be especially appropriate in areas where small children or pets are of concern.
  

Estimating the Cost of Operation

The operational costs of space heaters depend on the type of heater in use, as well as the room it is being used to heat. "Kilowatts x Rate x Time = Cost" is a useful formula, in general,to determine how much a heater will cost to run. Here is how the formual breaks down:

• kilowatts: the setting of the heater. Divide watts by 1,000 to get kilowatts per hour;
• rate: the cost of electricity per kilowatt-hour, which can be determined for an area by contacting the local utility company; and
• time: the amount of time the heater is in use.
  

For example, a 1,500-watt space heater running for 10 hours at a rate of $0.10 per kilowatt-hour will cost $1.50. Using the formula:

Kilowatts x Rate x Time = Cost,

the usage can be figured as:

(1,500w ÷ 1,000) x $0.10 kWh x 10 hours = $1.50.

Space Heater Safety

Since space heaters can generate extreme temperatures at the surface, they have the potential to be dangerousand even cause injury. Although they are safe when operated correctly, it is estimated that 25,000 residential fires and 300 deaths are associated with the use of space heaters every year. When using a portable space heater, following these safety precautions, as well as any guidelines recommended by the manufacturer of the unit, can lessen the risk of accident or injury.

• Use only the type of fuel or energy intended for use with the specific device. The use of gasoline in a kerosene heater, for example, would be very dangerous.
• Never attempt to repair or replace parts in a heater yourself. This should always be handled by a qualified service center, since the results of repairing a malfunctioning unit could be dangerous.
• Use of extension cords for the power supply should be avoided. A cord marked 14 or 12 AWG can be used if absolutely necessary.
• Do not use space heaters in wet or moist areas, such as in a bathroom.
• Always keep heaters level and on the floor. If a heater has been placed on furniture and it falls off, or if a table it has been placed on collapses, the damage to the unit could result in a fire or shock hazard. Some units contain a tip-over switch which automatically shuts the power off if the unit is knocked over, but even these should be situated in such a way that they will not be at risk of falling over.
• If the surface of the unit has a high operating temperature, there should be a guard around the heating element to keep people, pets and combustibles a safe distance away from it.
• The unit should have an indicator light to signal when it is plugged in or turned on.
• Be sure to install the correct size unit for the space to be heated. Too large or small of a unit may actually decrease energy efficiency, or could cause pollutants.

Other Factors to Consider

When considering the use of a space heater, especially for the purpose of improved energy efficiency, there are several final factors to consider. Space heaters will only impact energy efficiency in a positive way if they allow for the home's main thermostats to be turned down.If a space heater is used simply in addition to central heat without lowering the central thermostat, it will only add to energy bills.

Here are some other things to take into consideration when deciding whether a space heater will be right for a given situation, and which type of space heater will work best.

• What area of the building will the heater be used in? Be sure to select an appropriate unit for the area, and carefully consider whether this area will really benefit from use of a portable heater to begin with. For example, heating a room thatis generally too cold but not often used anyway would simply suck energy without much return on savings.
• Space heaters that include a thermostat are more efficient than models that do not.
• If the unit doesn't have a thermostat, utilize the different settings onit for maximum efficiency. Once a heater has adequately heated a room at full power, turn the setting lower to maintain current levels, rather than adding more heat toan already warmed room.
• Select a heater with appropriate safety features for the application. For example, a heater that achieves extremely hot surface temperatures may not be a good choice in an area where small children are present.
• The surface temperature of the heater can also be an issue in areas where combustibles might be found in close proximity to the unit.
• Some units that use a fan can be noisy, which may be an issue in certain circumstances, and should be taken into account during the selection process.

Space heaters can be effective energy-savers under the right circumstances, and different types of units will perform better in different situations. Knowing a bit about acceptable applications, as well as the properties of different designs, can be helpful in deciding if the use of a space heater will be a good choice for a home.

Inspect Before You Sell

Sellers' Pre-Listing Inspections

Eventually, a buyer is going to conduct an inspection. You may as well know what they are going to find by getting there first.

Having an inspection performed ahead of time helps in many other ways, such as:

• It allows you to see your home through the eyes of a critical and neutral third party.
• It alerts you to immediate safety issues before agents and visitors tour your home.
• It may alert you to items of immediate concern, such as radon gas or active termite infestation.
• It permits you to make repairs ahead of time so that ...
• Defects won't become negotiating stumbling blocks later.
• There is no delay in obtaining the Use and Occupancy Permit.
• You have the time to get reasonably priced contractors or make the repairs yourself, if qualified.
• It helps you to price your home realistically.
• It may relieve prospects' concerns and suspicions.
• It may encourage the buyer to waive his inspection contingency.
• It reduces your liability by adding professional supporting documentation to your disclosure statement.
  

Never hire an inspector who is not a member of InterNACHI, which provides the most trusted and rigorous training for inspectors in the industry.

Copies of the inspection report, along with receipts for any repairs, should be made available to potential buyers.